Day 5
Hamelin Bay Caravan Park to Cape Leeuwin 23.7km. 14 degrees with lightning & Thunder storms
I was awake at 5.30am even though my alarm was set for 6.00am on the IPhone. Overnight rain meant I had to repeg the fly because the rain moistened the sand the pegs were in and with a touch of wind the came out leaving the fly resting against the inner tent. While no rain got in it meant packing up everything while inside the tent and then packing away a wet tent. With only bore water in the park they suggest to boil or filter your water, so I boiled some overnight and cooled it off in their fridges to take with me. Only 1 litre taken plus 700ml Powerade, as I knew there was a creek crossing, and with the overnight rain its surely flowing fresh water. Breakfast in the kitchen allowed me to use their gas instead of my gas canister which still had some gas in it, which I couldn’t believe how long it lasted. I had the usual breakfast but because this was the last day all of it was consumed. Rice porridge, apple and sultanas and raw sugar, and a little raw sugar for cup of tea. Sweetened tea reminds me of Indonesia where they always give you tea with sugar unless you ask not to. A couple more cups of tea to get me hydrated before hitting the trail.
Forecast today was more rain and lightning.
I took off at 7.15am following the bitumum road out past the closed shop (opens at 7.30am that’s because the two running it were cleaning the BBQ and kitchen while I was having breakfast), to recommence the cape to cape track for the final day. Destination the last lighthouse. I had an easy start over stairs to the beach and through low wet shrub. I could see two sets of footprints, one adult and one youth but did not see them at all during the day. Due to the overnight rain I knew they must have been created in the morning before me. I wore rain pants and long sleeve due to the wet brush over the track which also means you get hot.
I soon came across the small lighthouse. I expected this great tall lighthouse like the beginning and end but it was just a small lighthouse on top of the hill, nothing spectacular at all or worthy stopping for. Past the lighthouse was Cosy Corner road where two cars were parked and more people’s footsteps were now on the track. I decided to follow the 4wd track to the beach instead of the coastal track along to Cape Hamelin. It looked like the two walkers had decided to take that option too but then I could see they had turned around after 100m to take the Cape to Cape track as they were going the wrong way or the saw the hill ahead. I could still see views of the ocean and the rocks below from the higher elevation and was able to just go around the water puddles on the road without getting my shoes wet. The bad thing about 4wd tracks is they go up and over hills while the track generally tries to stay on the same contour which can make them quicker if there was no sand or rock hopping.
There was something sticking into my back from my pack, so I stopped and moved the can of coke but after a few more metres walking it was still there. Stopped again and felt the wallet which normally sits at the bottom of the pack in an inner sleeve (suitable for a water bladder) was sitting up high as I had not pushed it down enough after going to the shops at Hamelin cp
.
Soon around the corner, from the higher elevation I caught a glimpse of the destination, the Cape Leeuwin lighthouse.
The entry to the Deepdene beach was over some rocks but soon enough the Deepdene Beach sand walk of 4.5km commenced. I could see 6 people ahead 500m and would follow their footsteps in the sand hopping for some relief of sinking into the sand with every step. By Turner Brook all in front had stopped to take off their shoes while I marched past getting my feet wet without any concern. Today I wore my Seal skinz socks thinking they would keep my feet dry, but the water level was above my socks. When wet they still provide good protection and also keep my feet warm. While there was no way I was going to take off my shoes and socks and walk bare feet on soft sand with a 12 kg pack on I was annoyed that sand kept entering the shoes from the mesh on top of my trail runners, so it felt like you were carrying a kg of sand in your shoe by the end of the beach sections. The gaiters only go to the last shoe lace, so if someone invents a better gaitor for trail runners with mesh on top, I’ll buy them. Both the Sealskinz and Imajii/Darn Tough combination worked really well that I didn’t have to empty the shoes of sand every few km to prevent rubbing.
This meant I was now in front and setting footprints for the group behind me and the walk along the beach just got harder.
A storm was brewing and it lashed out before I was off the beach section but fortunately lasted only 20 minutes. I managed to anticipate the storm and put on my wet weather gear-top, bottoms and shelter behind the umbrella. Fortunately the storm was from behind me so apart from the wind causing my pack to turn slightly the wind did cause one of the arms of the umbrella to bend. So as soon as the rain stopped I closed it and end up carrying it in its pouch in my hand until the morning break.
Having stopped near what I thought was the end of the beach section the 3 ladies behind me overtook me, with one saying how glad she was using my footprints. Well I can now use yours was my response. After lots of rock hopping, and overtaking the 3 ladies again on a difficult section where there was a large gap between the rocks and they had to find an alternative way, the track led uphill to a 4wd track where I stopped for a morning break at 11.30 and eat some trail mix and finish off the Powerade. I decided then I would have lunch at the Leeuwin Lighthouse which meant a shorter break than I would have liked. Crossing the first bitumen road I came across the registration station and signed off interested who had signed in before me. The final section takes you along the coast before finishing at the car park, but it does not feel finished until you get to the lighthouse. Entry was $20 including a lighthouse entry but it seemed free due to the current renovations occurring at the lighthouse. Before I got to the lighthouse though, I ordered from the restaurant menu lunch consisting of a GF bread toasted ham cheese and tomato plus hot chocolate and a Powerade.
At 2.55 I rang Cy from Southwest taxis who fortunately answered and said he was on his way back to the lighthouse to pick me up as he had just picked up 3 ladies beforehand and was just at the exit (the ones that kept overtaking each other during the day) taking them to Margaret River. I had accommodation booked in Augusta, Character 1940s Property through Booking.com so I had to go there. Cost $95.00. There was a supermarket open to get food. Dined in using one of my 5 dehydrated meals Lamb and vegetables.
In the morning I caught the 8.10am Transwa bus, cost $55.35 from Augusta to Bunbury arriving 10.50am. I had a choice to stay on the bus to arrive in Perth at 2.30pm or get off, have lunch at the local supermarket, and catch the train at 2.45 arriving at Perth at 5.12pm. I decide for lunch and the train as I had already seen the views from the bus coming down and I hoped I could walk around a train than you can on a bus. The train was booked to the max so there was no walking around but the views were great of the hills from the right hand side.
Straight after arriving at the Central station, platform 3, I hailed down a taxi to the overnight accommodation, Sanno Maracoonda Perth Airport Hotel ($125 through Booking .com) close to the airport. This accommodation had a bus that could take to the airport for my 11.00am flight the following day back to Darwin via Qantas. Dinner and breakfast at the restaurant.